Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom

23-11-2017, 21:07
The Chuisky Tract, officially the Novosibirsk-Tashanta M52 highway, 968 kilometers long, is the axis of the Altai Republic. Beginning as a pack trail, at the beginning of the twentieth century, it became almost the first road in Russia, originally built for car traffic.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Along with the Pamir and Kolyma tracts and the “military” roads of the Caucasus, the Chuysk tract is one of the most picturesque and exotic routes in the post-Soviet space. But in contrast to the above, there is also no extreme: throughout its length there is excellent asphalt, at each step there is a camp site, and two passes are very conditional. I showed the tract from Gorno-Altaisk to the village of Kamlak at the beginning of the series, the next section with the Seminsky Pass, Shebalino and Ongudai passed only late at night, but from the Chike-Taman pass to the Mongolian border I drove 3 times in each direction.
We will begin the journey along the Chuisky highway from the middle: in the last parts we went down through Teletskoye Lake, the valley of the Chulyshman and the Ulagansky highway to the village of Aktash, and first go north to it.In the first part - the neighborhood of Aktash with the famous Geyser lake, the Shirlak waterfall and the impregnable Bely Bom rock - the culmination of the Chui tract.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
It was not without difficulty that I settled in one of the two hotels of Aktash, I realized that it was still full of daylight, and decided to take a ride around the immediate environs of this former mining village in the heart of the Altai Mountains. In addition to the Valley of the Dumps of the mercury mine, which lies higher along the Kurai Range, the Aktash sights are located mostly just south of the road. For example, 15 kilometers from the village on the right you can see the ruins of the Aktash hydroelectric station - it was started to be built in the 1960s, but for some reason it was completed. Altai did not become the edge of the small hydropower industry, and its rivers still belong to water tourists. The most famous of the Altai mini-hydropower plants is spinning and accepting tourists in Chemal, and the modern Republic is remarkable as the only region in Russia that produces only “green” electricity. However, there is enough of all the local mini-hydro and new solar power plants, God forbid, for a third of the needs, and the needs are very modest due to the lack of crowds and the absence of large-scale industry.
Chui tract.From Aktash to Akbom
I photographed the Aktash hydroelectric station a week later on my way back from Mongolia. And that first evening on the Chuisky tract, I went to the Geysernoe Lake, located a little closer (6-8 kilometers from Aktash). The driver of the empty minivan, which I stopped, immediately asked:
-And you do not want to go to interesting places?
-This is what?
-In the jazz. I'm going there now.
Jazzator, as I already knew, is not some detail from the hydro turbine and not a drug addict lotion, but a village on the edge of the Chui valley, on the eve of the Ukok plateau, which Grigory Potanin called the Altai Pamir. From there, from Ukok, and the famous mummy of the Altai princess (I wrote about her here, including the fact that she is not a princess). In general, the first thought was “how lucky!”, The second “oh, what a pity that I had already settled into the hotel with such difficulty,” the third - “but what else would I see there, in this Jazzator, without a long hike in the mountains?” . The Chuy Basin and the Mongolian Altai promised about the same landscapes. In general, I had an interesting opportunity, and I rejected it, although the guy was definitely determined to take me there (not for free, of course) and even offered to turn me in to take my things from the hotel.But, unsure of the correctness of my choice, I got through a few kilometers between the campsites "Little Paradise" and "Myona".
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
The geyser lake in the list of Altai sights appeared somehow very SUDDENLY - not a word about it was found in the guidebooks of either 2003 or 2008, but when preparing the trip I saw it on Yandex photos, and by the time of departure she looked at me with her blue underwater "eyes" from literally every resource about Altai. From the tourist camp "Myona" a path was laid there, and when I asked the counter-guards whether to go far - they looked at me like a geek.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
On the way to the lake - a swamp. After hiking through Vaigach, this sight itself terrified me and caused wet cold in my legs, and in Altai it was perceived as a sudden call for urgent, urgent work in the middle of a well-deserved vacation. But through the swamp it is carefully laid gat, and the pointer says that it is not necessary to climb into its middle:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
From the banner of "Little Paradise" the hosts "Myon" made a prohibitive sign:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Some men had already walked by the lake, and one of them, coming up to me, said disappointedly:
-Well, like? I think x ... nya complete!
In fact, the feature of Geyserny is that in the photos it looks much more interesting than on the ground - I myself can not explain what this effect is connected with.When I went out on the birch, I also felt disappointed, and when looking at the photo I think how beautiful it is.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Perhaps, at the sight of the blue clay circles at the bottom, the imagination itself gives them movement, and the disappointment is that they are still. They say, from time to time the lake makes a loud "bull!" and releases a large bubble, dispersing blue waves through bottom silt.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Blue Lake is "passport", Geyzernoe - in the guidebooks, and among the tourists I met the name, I apologize, the Farting Lake. In fact, this is, as I understand it, nothing more than an underwater mud volcanic volcano.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Springs right from under the stones and turf hit the shores of the lake:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
There are paths around the beaten paths, somewhere where the gatis are laid, and something like a log cabin is being built right on the shore - maybe next season you will see a fence and a cashier here:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
The silence of the forest was sometimes interrupted by a melodious resonating sound - a girl with a Tibetan singing bowl sat alone on the stone and sometimes conducted along its edges. When I approached the stone to photograph the view from it, she silently raised herself to get down, and I whisper said, "Sit, sit, I'll leave now!", After which she sat back. She was obviously waiting for the moment when all the other tourists would leave, and the sun would start to set, to pusher oneself and the spirits.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
... Wikipedia writes that the Chuisky Tract was formerly called the Mungalsky Tract, and began with a procession of Turbents who came here once a year, laying plates with sacred Buddhist texts in the holy place Baykhach. This is almost true, but only with errors, as if the author of the article wrote it from memory: the Turbents are, of course, Derbet, the Mongol-speaking Oirat people from the Altai valley of Kobdo. Like many inhabitants of Altai, they considered Belukha to be their main shrine. Since on our side, the new border was almost not guarded, even after the Altai was part of Russia once a year, Derbet pilgrims and Buddhist lamas went along in large procession along Chinese pickets on Bayh-Agach - Generous tree somewhere in the headwaters of Bukhtarma. Once, telengits came to the pilgrims, but did not rob them, and the one who owned Derbet, said: "Textiles nnnada? Iron nails? Nnada? Tobacco nnada?" Russian manufactories on a cap of Chinese silk. So in 1788 in the Chuy valley the exchange fair Cherukeldy (literally “The army has come!”) Was formed - on a wide clearing in the headwaters of the Ulandryk river pilgrimsthey made a big halt, and the telengits came to them. The former already had Chinese goods in store, while the latter had Russian goods. Then the Altais drove to the north, and there, where the cart could reach from the Biisk district, they were met by Russian dealers. Mikhail Shebalin mastered this business best of all, from the trading post of which (founded in 1833) the regional center Shebalino grew up in the northern part of the Chuisk road. The main "nest" of the merchants was, as I understand it, Mayma, where the same She ** ling built the only stone church in the Altai Mountains. Other merchants got the hand themselves to go to the Chuya steppe - pilgrimage processions were long gone, while Chinese and Mongolian merchants continued to travel across borders, since 1864 it has already ceased to be conditional. The first Russians at that fair were Khabarov from Biisk and Tokarev from Zmeinogorsk. But the latter did not become a merchant town - the Chui trade was monopolized by Biysk, which was built richer than Irbit, at the fair of which its merchants sold goods from Altai.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
On a cold morning, I stepped onto the highway straight from the Avalon Hotel on the 788th kilometer of highway. Passing from the floor of the village, having missed a couple of cars, I finally drove away on a typical Altai UAZ vehicle without a number.The driver was not a mower, but a shishkar, and was driving happy - that day the season opened, and the Altai people were massively preparing to go to the taiga for a pine nut. He took me to Chibit, a neighboring village at the mouth of the very river Cibitka along which we descended in the last part. And although the active movement had already begun, I stood on the Chibitsky curb for another 2.5 hours - I did not immediately realize that with a huge backpack, a characteristic marker of a harmless tourist, on the Altai roads they were much more willing than with light baggage.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Meanwhile, the Mungalsky tract, which had shrunk by that time to the fair in the upper reaches of the Chui and therefore became Chui, remained a pack trail. She probably looked something like the Akkem trail now - trampled up to a meter wide and littered with horse manure. And the reason for this is visible in the frames above and below - these are BOMS. So in Altai, sheer cliffs are called over rivers, which extremely complicate the way from Ongudai to Kuray. Most often they were avoided along narrow ledges like the Pamir ovring, so the first thing the driver went to the other end was on foot and left the cap there - it was impossible to part with two horses. Otherwise, the booms could be bypassed only on top, but the slopes were too steep for wheeled vehicles: a road needed to be built, at a cost that exceeded the annual turnover of the Chui trade.The first "wheeled" Chuisky tract was laid in 1903, and then the bombs were supposed to be passed around the other bank, therefore a ferry was attached to each of them. But Chuya and Katun are not rivers for large boats, each crossing for a caravan could be delayed for several days, and unleashed horses or Mongolian cattle were completely swimming, so not all animals reached the other bank. The tract canvass on passes and cornices came off along with the snow, and in general, after only a few years, the traffic on the newly built road had died down. Its turnover, however, has grown over this time by 6 times.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Therefore, much more serious in the construction of the Chui tract took 1913-14 years. First of all, the expedition led the expedition under the direction of Vyacheslav Shishkov - the author of the Ugryum River traveled extensively in Siberia and dealt with responsible matters. I also showed the monument to him on the road near Gorno-Altaisk. The new road was ready by 1917, but there was a Civil War, in the battles of which all the bridges and gati were burned, and there was no one to support the canvas. In 1922, the Chuisky Tract received the status of a state road, but there was little benefit from it.However, in 1925, the first seven test runs of motor vehicles were crowned with success, and a year later the roar of tractors blew through the Altai valleys, the appearance of which, it is said, plunged the pagans into a panic
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
The Chui tract was built in 1925-35, that is, somewhat earlier both the Pamir highway and the Kolyma highway. But if the first was built according to the century-old Khashar method, and the latter were built by prisoners, then this way and that, the convicts worked somewhere (it’s not political, at least, of the eminent prisoners I don’t remember here) freelance locals and Komsomol members. Now they were serious about the matter - the booms were penetrated by explosives, the canvas was poured with gravel, and by the middle of the 1930s the Chui tract took on a roughly modern look, and the Mongolian caravans went to war with the Red Army. Initially, the Chuisky road was considered from Biisk to the border Tashanta, in 1961 its beginning was “moved” to Novosibirsk, extending four hundred kilometers. Separate sections of the road were reconstructed until the 1980s, and asphalt first appeared here not earlier than the last years of Soviet power.Now, on the other hand, the asphalt surface is flawless on most of the road, and the road itself is fairly well known in the West, not only among tourists, but also among automakers. The combination of turns, descents and ascents is a reference here, villages are rare, traffic is low, and therefore periodically, reputable companies like Volvo are experiencing on the Chui highway.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
And traveling by car along the Chuisky tract should be easy and pleasant, but without a car you have time to curse everything - buses come here, God forbid, once a day, sometimes semi-legal "gazelles" occur, which usually have no places. So to me, in the absence of money for hiring a car with a driver, there was only hitchhiking. I took the last few shots, including the globular bird, while I wandered around for two hours around Chibit. Finally, I was picked up by a car with a guy from Aktash, who was driving to the Shirlak waterfall. But it was not a tourist - in the trunk he was carrying a tray and souvenirs that he would sell there to tourists. The road, meanwhile, is incredibly beautiful, and the driver explained to me, behind what stone to look for petroglyphs, not described in any guidebook.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Here and Shirlak flowing down from the next boom at 761 km.At the beginning of the trail, a couple of shops were already deployed and there were five cars standing — there are many waterfalls in Altai, but this one is probably the most accessible.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
His second name is Girl's Tears, and I think you should not even retell "adyn ochen sad lagand".
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Although the waterfall is visible from the road, it still takes 10-15 minutes to climb the steep path to it, and in the heat it is quite exhausting. On a half-way, there is a lonely grave with an almost erased inscription in which the date of death “1961” is best distinguished. I would know her story more interestingly than any girl legends.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Here is an interesting moment - two days before, waterfalls in Altai were whipped from every crevice, and Shirlak, judging by the still wet stones, was a couple of times wider. That is, a few days after I visited it, it would most likely be a wet slope with flowing drops. Yes, for the sake of those waterfalls, and it was worth coming to Altai at the end of the rains.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
But then you can stand almost directly under the stream:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
The height of Shirlak is about 25 meters, in general, the average waterfall is by the standards of Altai.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
But tourists literally besieged him, and that in my case the most annoying thing is that this is all the crew of one car, that is, they would not be able to take me if they wanted to.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Downstairs turned shop.Alas, I had nothing to repay the person that gave me a lift, because I did not need souvenirs. And in the local edible assortment the most interesting were sweets made from honey and nuts:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
And in general, I stood there for another hour and a half. It was possible to go along Chue a little back, to the ruins of a limestone kiln marked on Wikimapia, which probably had a bearing on the construction of the road - but for some reason I was sure that it could be seen from the road and I did not see it, so I assumed it was demolished . I simply stood thinking more and more that hitchhiking is not mine, but how else is it to move? Finally, I saw two young men getting into a spacious car, and I simply asked for them: “don't throw a boom up to the White?”. I really hoped that I would be as lucky as the day before with Victor - to get to the tourists who will be transport for me, and I will be guiding them. But the guys were set up in a different way: a trucker from Novosibirsk was driving, bought a car for himself, and like all normal Novosibirsk people, drove it around to Altai. He didn’t know where to go; he didn’t like the beauty of the scenery, and in addition he heeded someone’s advice to go to Tashanta - they say it’s very beautiful there.Tashanta disappointed him - the village and the village, nothing to look at. And now the guys, frankly disappointed with Altai, were determined to return to Novosibirsk as soon as possible.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
It should be noted that “disappointed with Altai” is about the same category of people as “disappointed with Peter,” that is, once and for all and without objection. I remember such a person among acquaintances of jeepers: “Probably, I had to go first to Altai, and then to Mongolia. After Mongolia, I was not impressed at all. Well, the same Katu-Yaryk - what’s interesting in it? For tourists, it’s built there! 3 villages! " Well, it is natural: where there are people who fall in love with this place forever and go there to live - there must always be those whom it does not touch aggressively. Therefore, I left the car at the 744th kilometer of the White Bomb - the most inaccessible cliff of the old highway, captured in full height on the title frame.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
At the beginning of the Belobom possessions, in 2014, there is a monument to “Drivers of the Chuisk Road”, on which the AMO lorry and Willys, crawling uphill, are installed, apparently representing the “three-ton” and “Ford”. The national name of this monument is a monument to Kolka Snegirev, the character seems to be fictional, but among the old Altai drivers he was more real than all real ones.
The place of the tragedy was determined by the shofers as this turn, and already in the 1970s, a simple folk monument from the welded parts of the machine appeared on it, around which, according to the Altai tradition, grew both. Now it is stored in the Biysk Museum of the Chuisk Road, saved by its owner at its own expense, but a new monument ... well, why couldn’t THAT cars be placed on it? And most importantly - why do we have this at every step?
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Another monument to an unknown chauffeur was lying at a distance. For some reason, the Chuysk tract is especially cruel to the artists and the power of imushim: the singer Tatyana Snezhina (1995), the mayor of Barnaul Vladimir Bavarin (2003), the governor of the Altai Territory and the artist Mikhail Evdokimov (2005) died in an accident ... but all these accidents occurred in the flat part of the tract, and the bloodiest accident in 2007 - and all between Barnaul and Novosibirsk. So an empty mountain road is safer than a busy road on the plain:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
At the monument, along with me, another car stopped with Kazakh numbers, from where a broad-shouldered man with an intelligent-looking girl came from. I tried to start a conversation with them, but I quickly realized that I would not be interested: such a category as couples is common among tourists in Altai.They usually have a lot of space in the car, but most often the third one is superfluous.
From the monument, I went upstairs - a rather large, almost a kilometer, section of the Old Road, the one that Shishkov had laid, was saved here.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
He also removed the title frame. In general, the road looked frightening - winding, rocky, now to the right wall, now to the left precipice, for something like this we drove in Tajikistan to the valley of Yagnobi. Another thing is that such Chui road on its various parts stayed only 10-20 years, and although it was designed for car traffic, carriages more often drove along it:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Another bird:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Looking back:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
The first highway bypasses the bombs through the ferry, "Shishkovsky" - through the passes, well, and the Soviet builders broke through the rocks:
Chui tract.From Aktash to Akbom
White Bom even now suppresses its power. Behind the rock - either a village, or a tomborod Akbom:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
In the diameter of the White Bom - a few kilometers, a height - 150 meters above the river:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
But in general, the most difficult place of the Chui tract is approximately as the “background” level of the Pamir tract:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
On the other side of the rocks is Big Belobomskaya cave, but some grottoes are also gaping on this:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
A few decades ago it was possible to find a cartridge case, a button, a piece of harness, a coin with a royal eagle in these grottoes. A small obelisk (1957) is on a rock by the road punched by explosive works:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Once in a civil war a detachment of either a hundred, or two Red Army soldiers, lay down at this place. The civilian in Altai was generally conducted, as it was on all the periphery, extremely cruel - the Reds finished off the whites, and White had nothing to lose. There were few whites, but mostly they were cadre officers of the tsarist army and Cossacks, while the Reds were mostly semi-literate militiamen. White under the White Bom, it is believed that there were literally a few people, set up an ambush - machine-gun crew in a secluded place and the arrows on the other side. Controlling with fire two points of a narrow road on opposite sides of a sprawling detachment, the whites laid it all down, and then the dead, and the wounded were dropped into Chuya. For the Soviets it was a mean attack from around the corner, and for someone it was a masterpiece of military art.
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
There is only one snag in this story - the complete lack of specifics, the only historical material about this is the memories of the Red Army man Andrei Tsilikin, who saw only the consequences of that battle. Some say that a detachment of red commander Pyotr Sukhov died here, only the "sukhovets" defeated by the Ust-Koksinsky tract that were defeated in the summer of 1918 and Belyom could not lie in their path, although they did get into ambushes.In another version, an ambush Alexander Kaygorodov, an ally of the legendary Ungern von Sterbnberg, organized an ambush in the fall of 1921, from Kobdo, breaking into Altai. In general, a mysterious place. Maybe a monument to abstract fighters for the power of the Soviets, and Belobomsky battle - a collective image of Cossack mountain ambushes?
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
This is Akbom village beyond Ak-Bom, at 742 km. Although the village is not visible - a couple of campgrounds, cafes, gas station and mehbaza:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
At the fountain in front of the cafe people stop to take water:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
And seeing wooden sculptures on the hill, I decided to climb them:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
And I found that most likely this is not a lure for tourists (a couple of camp sites are higher than the razdeku), but a very complete sanctuary of the Altai people with white jalams:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
The Altai themselves passed by on horseback. Judging by the presence of a dog - in the taiga, maybe for pine cones:
Chui tract. From Aktash to Akbom
Here I stood for about an hour, and then I was picked up by an empty Maria-Ra truck. Finally, the house by the road, which I was told about, passing by, on the way back, and I took a picture of it and returned from Mongolia. So, the Altai people, who brought me from Chike-Taman to Aktash, claimedthat the Amazons live here - an altai woman with three daughters settled away from the village, and the four of them regularly pulled the economy with heavy physical labor and tractors. However, the young gazelist, with whom we were traveling from Mongolia, generally noticed that Altai women often pull on themselves a lot, because Altai are unstable to alcohol and drunk men a lot in local villages it works, and this monster is already lying in the morning with horns in the ground! "). But singles away from the village - apparently even for these places is a special case.

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